SEPTEMBER MARKS the end of summer's last stand as heat and humidity give way to cooler skies, balmy breezes and autumn's palette of vibrant reds and golds. Make the most of the season with fall getaways that are equally rich in color and culture.
月标志着夏天最后一刻的终结,酷热和潮湿终于让道于凉爽的苍穹、和煦的微风以及秋季调色板上活力四射的红色与金色。。把握住秋天的出游时光。在这个季节,不论是赏景之行,还是文化之旅,两者都将同样丰富多彩。
Art Attack
艺术之旅
SWITZERLAND // Art Basel may be long over, but this Swiss city's cultural scene hums well into fall thanks to its museums. The Kunstmuseum houses Europe's oldest public art collection, while the Museum für Gegenwartskunst specializes in works from 1960 onward. Best of all is the Renzo Piano-designed Beyeler Foundation, whose Maurizio Cattelan exhibition makes way next month for Thomas Schutte's bronze busts.
瑞士 // 巴塞尔艺术博览会(Art Basel)可能已落幕许久,但由于巴塞尔坐拥众多博物馆,这座瑞士城市的文化景观得以很好地延展至秋季。巴塞尔美术馆(Kunstmuseum)陈列着欧洲最古老的大众艺术收藏品,而当代艺术馆(Museum fur Gegenwartskunst)则专门展出1960年以后的作品。在诸多博物馆中最出色的一家是由伦佐·皮亚诺(Renzo Piano)操刀设计的贝耶勒基金会博物馆(Beyeler Foundation),现在这里正在展出毛里齐奥·卡泰兰(Maurizio Cattelan)的作品,而下个月则将进行托马斯·舒特(Thomas Schutte)的青铜半身雕像展。
ITALY // November marks the end of the 55th Venice Art Biennale--which means there's still plenty of time to enjoy La Serenissima at its culture-rich best. Park yourself at the newly opened Aman Canal Grande, a restored and rare palazzo monumentale near the Rialto Bridge (amanresorts.com). Also close are the Biennale's best bets: from Ai Weiwei in the German Pavilion to a Ravel-inspired video installation by Anri Sala in the French Pavilion.
意大利 //第五十五届威尼斯双年展(Venice Art Biennale)将于11月落下帷幕,这意味着你仍有许多时间可以在其文化最丰盛的双年展上欣赏水城威尼斯(La Serenissima) 。将你自己置身于新开业的安缦威尼斯度假村(Aman Canal Grande)内。该度假村坐落在里阿尔托桥(Rialto Bridge)附近,由一处罕见的宫殿翻修建成。靠近该度假村的还有双年展最棒的部分展出:从德国馆的艾未未到法国馆的安利·萨拉(Anri Sala),后者的录影装置作品是从拉威尔(Ravel)的音乐中汲取灵感制成的。
FRANCE // This year has been Marseille's moment to shine. In 2013's European Capital of Culture, a new InterContinental Hotel now overlooks the historic port, where you can find the new MuCEM and Regards de Provence museums. Marseille's food scene has also been updated. Try pan-Mediterranean comfort classics at Café Populaire (110 Rue Paradis; +33 4 91 02 53 96) or Philippe Moreno's fish-focused restaurant at the MuCEM.
法国 // 今年是马赛(Marseille)的闪光时刻。在此“2013欧洲文化之都”(2013's European Capital of Culture),一家全新的洲际酒店(Intercontinental Hotel)现今正俯瞰着这个历史悠久的港口。在马赛,你能寻访到欧洲及地中海文化博物馆(MUCEM)和普罗旺斯博物馆(Regards de Provence)。这里的美食城也已更新换代。去Populaire咖啡厅(地址:110 Rue Paradis; 电话:+33 4 91 02 53 96)试一试泛地中海的经典菜式,或者去欧洲及地中海文化博物馆菲利普·莫雷诺(Philippe Moreno)专注做鱼的餐厅尝一尝。
Fall Foliage
秋之落叶
FRANCE // The vineyards of Limoux in the Languedoc may be best known for their sparkling wines, but they also offer one of Southern Europe's most indulgent opportunities to enjoy autumnal colors. Here, as workers harvest Mauzac and Chardonnay grapes, the vine leaves transform into endless fields of orange and gold. Taste Limoux bubbly directly at its source at J. Laurens, which produces some of the area's top vintages. jlaurens.fr
法国 // 朗格多克(Languedoc)利穆(Limoux)葡萄园区最著名的或许是他们的起泡酒,但他们还提供南欧观赏秋景的绝佳机会之一。置身此地,在工作人员采摘莫扎克(Mauzac)和霞多丽(Chardonnay)葡萄的时节,这里的葡萄藤蔓就会变成无边无际的橙色和金色。你可直接在原产地J.劳伦斯(J. Laurens)品一品起泡酒,这里出产这一片区的部分顶级佳酿。(网址:jlaurens.fr )
GERMANY // Fall colors arrive in Bavaria just in time for Oktoberfest (Sept. 21-Oct. 6). Take a break from all that lager with a visit to nearby Neuschwanstein Castle, the fairytale-like hilltop palace built by King Ludwig II in 1892 ( neuschwanstein.de ). Two hours from Munich, the castle is tucked deep in forests whose leaves seem ablaze with color. Horses and buggies can ferry you to the site, but the low-impact trail provides the most flora-filled fun.
德国 // 在巴伐利亚州,秋色翩然而至,又正好赶上慕尼黑啤酒节(9月21日至10月6日)。从啤酒节中抽空游览附近的新天鹅堡(Neuschwanstein Castle),它是一座耸立于山顶、童话般的宫殿,由国王路德维希二世(King Ludwig II) 于1892年建成(网址:neuschwanstein.de)。从慕尼黑出发前往此处需两小时车程。新天鹅堡藏在森林深处,这里的树叶看起来色彩鲜明闪亮。马车能将你载至目的地,但这段行进省力的小径却植被茂密,提供许多生趣。
NEW YORK // The Catskills may only be 90 minutes from Manhattan, but this semi-mountainous region is alive with color in the fall. Revel amid the changing leaves in the tiny town of Phoenicia, where a quartet of entrepreneurial Brooklynites recently debuted The Graham & Co., a hotel with 20 rustic rooms, an al fresco pool and ultra-informed staffers with full foliage knowledge. thegrahamandco.com
纽约 // 凯茨奇尔(Catskills)离曼哈顿(Manhattan)可能只有90分钟车程,但这片半山区在秋季却因色彩而生机盎然。在腓尼基(Phoenicia)小镇,狂欢在叶色变幻中上演。在这里,四位活动主办者布鲁克林人最近在Graham &Co.酒店登台演出。这家酒店拥有20间乡村风格的房间,一座露天泳池以及诸多消息超灵通、植物知识渊博的员工。(网址:thegrahamandco.com)
Garden Islands
花园群岛
AZORES // Pico is the second-largest island in the Azores, with a unique topography defined by terraced hillside vineyards. These distinctive stone-walled lots are a Unesco World Heritage Site, rich with volcanic soil and densely planted with white Verdelho wine grapes. Fall marks the start of festival season here--capped in October by the annual food festival, where free-flowing Verdelho is served with local cheeses and charcuterie.
亚速尔群岛(AZORES) //皮科(Pico)是亚速尔群岛第二大岛屿,它拥有独特地形,以梯田状的葡萄园区为主。这些特色鲜明的石垒 是联合国教科文组织世界遗产(Unesco World Heritage Site) ,它们富含火山土,上面密集地种植着酿造华帝露(Verdelho)干白酒所需的葡萄。秋季标志着此地佳节的开始——10月份将举办一年一度的美食节,到时会提供自由畅饮的华帝露酒以及当地的奶酪和猪肉熟食。
ITALY // The Lake Region is best-known as the stomping ground of cinematic royalty. But Lake Como and Maggiore's real stars are the island gardens developed over centuries by the region's actual aristocracy. On Isola Bella, the Borromeo family has created a garden compound so fanciful it appears like a floating wedding cake. The nearby Villa Balbianello, set on a 12-hectare isthmus, pairs protected woods with meticulously tended gardens and elegant architecture.
意大利 // 湖区(Lake Region)作为影片中皇室的落脚点而闻名于世。但科莫湖(Lake Como)和马焦雷湖(Maggiore)真正的明星是几个世纪以来由这一地区真正的贵族打理形成的岛屿花园。在美丽岛(Isola Bella)上,博罗梅奥(Borromeo)家族已建立了一座梦幻的花园群区,它看起来就像一块漂浮的婚礼蛋糕。附近的巴比安内罗别墅(Villa Balbianello)坐落在12英亩(约合4.9公顷)的地峡上,它还坐拥起保护作用的树林、精心打理的花园与雅致的建筑。
SPAIN // It's easy to dismiss the Canary Islands as a package-tourism no man's land. But that would mean missing out on the archipelago's lush tropical landscapes and increasingly upscale waterfront resorts. Enjoy both at the Abama Golf and Resort ( abamahotelresort.com ), set on a cliff above a private slice of sandy shoreline. The 18-hole golf course is enlivened with over 25, 000 palm trees and hundreds of semitropical plants.
西班牙 // 人们容易将加那利群岛(Canary Islands)视为组团旅游项目中的一处无人区而不予考虑。但这意味着将错过这些群岛上繁茂的热带植被景观以及不断增长的高档海滨度假村。在阿巴马高尔夫度假酒店(Abama Golf and Resort, 网址:abamahotelresort.com)享受前述两种景观吧。该酒店坐落在沙滩海岸线私人片区的一处悬崖之上。25,000多颗棕榈树和成千上百种亚热带植物给这片18洞的高尔夫球场增添了生机。
Summer Sun
夏日阳光
TURKEY // The Aegean Riviera continues to rev up its boho bona fides as artists and designers join moguls and media makers along its crystalline coastline. The area's latest gathering spot is the hamlet of Alacati, near Izmir. This season's best beds are found at La Capria, a 20-room hotel with Moroccan-meets-Mediterranean furnishings and its own 25-meter gulet for island hopping in the late-summer sun. lacapriasuitehotel.com
土耳其 // 随着众多艺术家与设计师加入到滑雪行列、媒体制造商来到其水晶般清澈透明的海岸线,爱琴海里维埃拉(Riviera)的波西米亚风潮继续升温。该区最大的聚集地是伊兹密尔(Izmir)附近的小镇阿拉恰特(Alacati)。你能在拉卡普里亚(La Capria)酒店里找到这个季节中的最佳床铺。该酒店拥有20个房间,内配有融合了摩洛哥与地中海风情的家具,它还拥有自己25米高的帆船,这是为夏末阳光中的环岛游配备的。(网址:lacapriasuitehotel.com)
PORTUGAL // For centuries, the beach town of Cascais has lured both surfers and nobility to its sun-kissed shores, barely 45 minutes from Lisbon. Drenched in the stark Atlantic sun, the coastline is dotted with historic forts. Make like a soldier and head to the new 126-room Pousada de Cascais hotel, a converted 16th-century citadel that marries new-build rooms with a historic core--including a handful of guest rooms within the original barracks quarters. pousadas.pt
葡萄牙 // 几个世纪以来,海滨小镇卡斯凯什(Cascais)不断吸引着冲浪者与名流显贵来到其阳光热吻下的海岸,该地离里斯本只需45分钟车程。沐浴在大西洋耀眼的阳光中,这片海岸线遍布着诸多历史悠久的古堡。你要像战士一样前往这座拥有126个崭新房间的卡斯凯什古堡酒店(Pousada de Cascais)——这座16世纪的城堡经过翻修后将新建的房间与历史核心因素融为一体——包括建在原先兵营宿舍内的少数几间客房。(网址:pousadas.pt)
CYPRUS // The azure seas fronting the resort-town of Paphos are a world away from the island's cookie-cutter package hotels. Here, where Aphrodite is fabled to have journeyed and Roman governors later ruled, archaeology is as abundant as the bronze sandy beaches. With summer weather lasting well into fall, book a room at the Modernist Almyra Hotel, where whitewashed villa suites include private rooftop decks. almyra.com
塞浦路斯 // 度假小镇帕福斯(Paphos)前方的碧海是远离该岛上千篇一律酒店的另一个世界。传说爱和美的女神阿芙罗狄(Aphrodite)曾到过这里。后来,该地由罗马官员统治,所以这里的古迹多得就像古铜色的沙滩一样。由于夏季的天气会很好地延续到秋季,你就在现代主义雅尔蜜拉酒店(Modernist Almyra Hotel)预定一间房吧,这里刷得雪白的别墅套房配有私人屋顶甲板。(网址:almyra.com)
Vibrant Cities
活力城市
SPAIN // In Andalucía, where whitewashed villages are as common as sherry and jamon, Júzcar stands out--literally. But its brightly colored blue architecture isn't indigenous. It's the result of a marketing ploy; the town hosted the 2011 premiere of 'The Smurfs.' Today, tens of thousands of visitors flock here to experience these Moorish houses in their azure glory. For purists, the original terra-cotta roofs will be a welcome relief.
西班牙 // 在安达鲁奇亚(Andalucía),粉刷成白色的村落就像雪利酒和西班牙火腿一样常见,而胡斯卡尔(Juzcar)是其中最出彩的一座村落——按照字面意思是这样。但它鲜艳明快的蓝色建筑并不是与生俱来的,而是市场营销策略的结果。这座小镇举办了2011年《蓝精灵》(The Smurfs)的首映式。如今,成千上万的游客蜂拥至此体验这些笼罩在蓝色光环中的蘑菇形房子。对于纯化论者而言,当地原有的陶瓦屋顶将成为一种受人青睐的安慰。
MOROCCO// Like most popular Moroccan destinations, Chefchaouen has monumental mosques, traditional tea shops and a bustling medina. But while color in most cities is limited to the bazaar, Chefchaouen is awash in it. During the last century, the city's buildings were increasingly accented in vibrant blue--both as a cooling mechanism and as an act of spirituality by its once large Jewish population, for whom sky blue was a sacred color.
摩洛哥 // 像大多数受欢迎的摩洛哥旅游城市一样,小镇舍夫沙万(Chefchaouen)拥有不朽的清真寺、传统的茶叶店和一处熙熙攘攘的阿拉伯人聚居区。虽然大多数城市的集市在外观颜色上存在局限性,但舍夫沙万却处处充斥着色彩。在过去的一个世纪里,这座城市中越来越多的建筑染上了充满活力的蓝色——既作为一种降温机制,也作为犹太人的一种信教行为。这座小镇的许多居民都曾是犹太人。对他们来说,天空蓝曾是一种神 的颜色。
NORWAY // The country's second-largest city may be best-known for its nearby fjords and glaciers, but Bergen is rich in culture and architecture. The latter is thanks to the German merchants of the Hanseatic League, who crowded Bergen's wharf with colorful wooden warehouses, which today comprise one of Norway's seven Unesco World Heritage Sites. Once filled with cod, they now house restaurants, shops and the Hanseatic Museum.
挪威 // 该国第二大城市卑尔根市(Bergen)最闻名于世的可能是其附近的峡湾与冰川,但它却在文化和建筑领域也建树颇丰。而后者的兴起多亏了汉萨同盟(Hanseatic League)的德国商人,他们在卑尔根的码头密密麻麻地修建了多彩的木制货仓,这些货仓在今天成为了挪威的七大联合国教科文组织世界遗产之一。曾经用来存放鳕鱼的仓库如今成了餐厅、商店和汉萨博物馆(Hanseatic Museum)的所在地。
|