Men often get stuck in a shoe rut, opting for the same pair or two over and over regardless of the occasion. 'Men are much more rigid in their minds about shoes' than women, says shoe designer Pierre Hardy. 'When they find something they love that fits, they just keep wearing it.'
男士穿鞋常常会陷于单调，总是不分场合选择同一双或两双鞋。巴黎鞋履设计师皮埃尔•哈迪（Pierre Hardy）说，男人对鞋的观念比女人要死板得多，发现有喜欢的鞋子适合自己的时候，他们就会一直穿。
The Paris-based Mr. Hardy says he consciously tries not to wear the same shoes every day. It is easy, of course, for a designer who owns 100 pairs of shoes伟but Mr. Hardy believes that just 10 styles can cover almost any occasion for which a man needs to dress: 'five to six pairs dressy, two to three casual, two sporty伟not counting sandals, ' he says.
哈迪说，他会刻意每天不穿同样的鞋。当然，对一位拥有100双鞋的设计师来说这很容易，但哈迪认为，10种风格就能满足一个男人所有场合穿鞋的需要：五到十双的考究风格，两到三双休闲鞋，两双运动鞋──不算凉鞋。
Men can start by changing out of those understated black or brown shoes that are so popular for office wear. For a serious business meeting, 'dark navy, dark burgundy, very smoky colors can be a good alternative to a classic black or brown, ' he says.
男士们可以从换掉那些职业装束中惯用的低调黑色或棕色皮鞋做起。哈迪说，如果参加重要的商务会议，深海军蓝、深紫红色和烟熏色都会是替代经典黑色或棕色不错的选择。
He cautions men, however, to avoid going too light in a dress shoe. 'Very light leather colors are difficult to match伟except for very stylish Italian guys who seem to know how to manage that.'
不过，他告诫男士应避免穿颜色太浅的商务鞋。他说，颜色太浅的皮鞋很难搭配──除了非常时髦的、知道如何驾驭这类鞋子的意大利男士。
Interesting details can jazz up a shoe. This fall, Mr. Hardy thinks polished leather with an uneven patina can add a bit of intrigue伟'it's like the shoe has been worn, but very stylishly.' Newer styles that mix varied textures伟a shiny leather with a grainy one伟can add a bit of difference as well.
有趣的细节会为鞋子增色。今年秋季，哈迪认为光泽不均匀的抛光皮面会让鞋子看起来更有意思──就像是鞋子已经穿旧了，但又非常时髦。融合不同质地的较新款式──光面皮革与粒面皮革相结合──也会让鞋子更与众不同。
Suede also works well. He calls it 'a good alternative in between a very dressy shoe for day and something a little more relaxed.'
绒面革的效果也很好。哈迪称其为介于正装鞋和休闲鞋之间不错的选择。
Mr. Hardy cautions men to pick a style that has just one eye-catching feature. If the shoe has a striking texture, for example, it shouldn't also have bold stitching. 'I like it when it's not too busy, when it's quite linear, ' he says. Mr. Hardy also avoids shoes that 'make your feet look small or when the opening is too low伟that looks a little bit feminine.'
哈迪提醒说，男士应选择只有一个突出特点的款式。例如，如果鞋子的质地很特别，那么就不应该有显眼的缝合线。他说，我喜欢缝合线不那么密集，而且要很流畅。哈迪也不喜欢会让脚显小或者鞋帮太低的鞋子──这样看起来有点女气。
Throw in some boots to wear with both dressy and casual looks, Mr. Hardy says. He likes how boots lend a rugged yet polished sportiness to suits. 'For men, boots are really about the kind of elegance associated with horses or motorbikes, ' he says. One caveat: Boots work best with suits made of heavier fabrics, such as wool, tweed or velvet, he says.
哈迪说，找几双既能搭配正装又适合休闲风格的靴子。他觉得靴子能给西装带来一种粗糙而又优雅的运动感。他说，对男士来说，靴子有一种让人联想起骑马或摩托车的潇洒感。他说，要注意的一点是，靴子最好和面料比较厚重的西装搭配，比如羊毛、花呢或天鹅绒。
For formal events, Mr. Hardy often dons a loafer or classic derby in shiny patent leather. But sometimes he tries to have fun with a velvet slipper that is embroidered. 'It gives a bit of edge, ' he says.
出席正式活动时，哈迪经常会穿亮面漆皮的乐福鞋（loafer）或经典德比鞋（derby）。但他有时为了好玩也会尝试绒面刺绣鞋。他说，这样会增强时髦感。
Mr. Hardy encourages men to think beyond sneakers for nonwork occasions. A boot is 'a good alternative between a sneaker and a very proper shoe, ' he says. A dressy derby or Richelieu, or oxford, shoe looks modern with jeans.
对于非工作场合的穿着，哈迪鼓励男士不要局限于球鞋。他说，靴子是介于运动鞋和正装鞋之间不错的选择。正式的德比鞋或牛津鞋和牛仔裤搭配看起来很现代。
Conversely, sneakers can sometimes add unexpected panache to a suit. In that case, the sneakers should be 'very plain and clean'伟perhaps all-white伟he says, to convey elegance as well as sportiness.
反过来，球鞋有时也会给西装带来意想不到的效果。他说，如果搭配西装，球鞋应该“简单而干净”──也许需要是纯白色，才能同时表现优雅感和运动感。
Whatever occasion you're dressing for, have a little fun. Mr. Hardy suggests using contrasts to add some edge to a look. Pair a very classic shoe in black or brown with something fun, he suggests. Or, 'if you're wearing something that you used to wear a classic shoe with, doing a casual one can change everything.'
无论是什么场合都要找点乐趣。哈迪建议运用对比来增强时尚感。他建议说，可以用一双非常经典的黑色或棕色鞋子搭配好玩的衣服，或者如果你总是用经典鞋子搭配某套衣服，换成休闲鞋搭配就会有完全不同的感觉。
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