In a city where high-end restaurants often boast about their imported meats, Frank Sun has a zeal for sourcing China's best local ingredients. The architect turned restaurateur, a family friend of Alice Waters, in October opened F by Tribute, where he has applied his philosophy of understated elegance both to the restaurant's design─its exterior is reminiscent of Le Corbusier─and to its California-inspired dishes.
高端餐馆常以进口肉类为豪的北京,孙继先却热衷于选取中国最好的本土原料。曾经当过建筑设计师的孙继先同美国名厨爱丽丝•沃特斯(Alice Waters)是世交。他的“F by Tribute”在2012年10月份开张,将低调华丽的理念同时融入餐馆的设计(外墙让人想起柯布西耶(Le Corbusier)的作品)及其借鉴加州风味的菜品当中。
'I'm trying to make a small difference in the way people live and engage with food in our very small ways, ' Mr. Sun said. 'The integrity of the ingredients is really important, and being seasonal and fresh counts.'
孙继先说,我想用我们非常细小的方式,来小小地改变一下人们的生活方式、与食物打交道的方式;原料是否地道真的非常重要,合时令、新鲜也很重要。
Chef-Owner: Though he has no formal training as a chef, Taiwan-born Mr. Sun comes from culinary royalty. He was raised in San Francisco by his aunt, Cecilia Chiang, the chef often credited with introducing America to authentic Chinese cuisine; he is also the cousin of Philip Chiang, founder of the P.F. Chang's chain of Chinese bistros. His first foray into Beijing's restaurant scene was in 1998, when he acted as a food consultant for the Glass Onion, one of Beijing's first upscale Western restaurants. In 2002, he opened a private kitchen out of his Hong Kong architecture practice; that soon led to restaurants such as Hong Kong's Tribute and Bricolage 62, and Beijing's short-lived Tribute North, which closed in 2009 due to landlord issues.
厨师/老板:台湾出生的孙继先没有接受正规的厨师培训,但他来自烹饪世家。孙继先在旧金山长大,抚养他成人的,便是常被认为向美国介绍了正宗中国菜的江孙芸,他的姑姑。孙继先也是连锁中餐馆“P.F. Chang”创始人江一帆的表亲。他第一次打入北京餐饮界是1998年、为北京首批上流西餐馆之一“Glass Onion”担任饮食顾问的时候。2002年,他在香港做建筑设计之余开了一家私人厨房。这个厨房很快演变成香港“Tribute”、“Bricolage 62”和北京“Tribute North”等餐馆。“Tribute North”没开多久,2009年因为房东的关系关闭。
Food & Drink: F by Tribute's menu changes fortnightly to reflect what's in season. Diners can choose between a five- or eight-course dinner (398 to 598 yuan, or $64 to $96) and a two- or three-course lunch (118 to 138 yuan). Ingredients don't seem 'cooked' so much as curated: Sauces are used sparingly and flavors stay pure in unfussy concoctions such as tender butter-poached Alaskan cod or rich roasted-chestnut soup. The sauces themselves are startlingly simple─one reduction is made solely from pomegranate─but they're far from spartan, thanks to touches such as truffle slivers and wine aspics. Mr. Sun says 90% of his ingredients are local, including beef sourced from farms in Inner Mongolia and Shandong and Hebei provinces, and caviar from Harbin.
菜品和酒水:为与时令合拍,F by Tribute的菜单两周换一次。食客可以选择五道菜或八道菜的晚餐(人民币398元至598元),以及两道菜或三道菜的午餐(118元到138元)。原料与其说是经过了烹制,不如说是经过了组织:很少用到调料,并经过随意调和而保持纯正口味,如嫩黄油清蒸阿拉斯加鳕鱼,或者是烤栗子浓汤。调料本身简单得令人吃惊──比如有一种浇汁,就完全用石榴制成。但由于松露片和红酒肉冻等元素的加入,这些调料远远不能说是简陋。孙继先说,90%的原料都是本土出产,包括从内蒙古、山东和河北牧场采购的牛肉,以及从哈尔滨采购的鱼子酱等。
The wine list offers around 80 bottles of mainly French, Italian and Californian wines, but also includes more unusual selections such as a Chardonnay from China's Shanxi province.
酒单上有80多瓶葡萄酒,主要产自法国、意大利和美国加州,但也包括一些更加稀少的品种,比如一瓶产自中国山西省的夏敦埃酒。
Setting: The restaurant is located on a quieter section of Sanlitun Nanlu, away from the iPhone hawkers and boisterous nightclub crowds. The sign─a large but subtle F stencil set in the door─is easy to miss, but reflects the restaurant's low-key atmosphere. The space is wide open, with enormous windows, a mezzanine and semiopen kitchen, yet various nooks and elevated floors give each table a sense of privacy. While galvanized steel accents and framed artwork adorn the white walls, clean lines dominate, keeping the focus firmly on the food.
环境:餐馆坐落于三里屯南路较安静的路段,远离叫卖iPhone的小贩和喧嚣的酒吧。标牌是一块安装在地板上的漏字板,上刻一个大大的“F”,但不是很明显,所以很容易错过。不过这也反映了餐馆的低调氛围。布局很开阔,有大大的窗户,有一个处在夹层的半开放厨房,但多个隐蔽角落与抬高的地板让每一张桌子都有一种私密感。虽然白色墙壁上装点着镀锌钢元素和加了框的画作,但主要还是呈现为简洁的线条,使人的注意力稳稳地落在菜品之上。
Our Tip: Bottles are moderately priced, ranging from 320 yuan ($51) for Chilean Carménère to 1, 450 yuan for a 2007 Chateau Batailley. But the wine pairing for the eight-course dinner is a steal, at just 200 yuan. In terms of flavor profiles, Mr. Sun's pairings are as meticulous as one would expect from a man who draws mini blueprints of his dishes before developing them in the kitchen.
提示:葡萄酒定价适中,从智利卡门尼的320元到2007年巴特利庄园的1,450元不等。但八道菜晚餐搭配的葡萄酒很便宜,才200元。孙继先的风味搭配做得一丝不苟,就像是先画好了草图再去厨房调配一样。
F by Tribute, 6 Sanlitun South Rd., Chaoyang District; Tel: +86 10 6501 7501. Dinner for two with wine pairing around 1, 600 yuan ($257).
F by Tribute,朝阳区三里屯南路6号;电话:+86 10 6501 7501。两人晚餐搭配葡萄酒约1,600元。
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