Ever heard of Au Départ? How about Belber or Herbert Levine?
你听说过Au Départ吗？那么贝尔伯（Belber）或赫伯特·莱文（Herbert Levine）呢？
You will soon. Believe it or not, they’re all quite old. And primed for a renaissance under the gentle wake-up call of French entrepreneur Arnaud de Lummen. He calls them his sleeping beauties.
你很快会听到这些品牌的名字。无论你相信与否，这些品牌都有非常古老的历史。在法国企业家阿诺德·德鲁曼（Arnaud de Lummen）温柔的唤醒下，我们准备迎来时尚品牌复兴的时代。他把这些品牌称为自己的睡美人。
“When you re-launch a brand, it’s like telling a story, ” said de Lummen, who is the founder and director of Luvanis, an investment company that focuses on long-dormant luxury brands.
德鲁曼表示，“在你重新推出一个品牌的时候，如同向人们讲述美好的故事。”他是Luvanis公司的创始人和董事，这家投资公司专注于唤醒沉睡已久的奢侈品牌。
He should know—he famously revived the 19th-century trunkmaker Moynat and sold it to Groupe Arnault for an undisclosed sum in 2011. (Founded in 1849—five years prior to Louis Vuitton–Moynat earned respect among the rich for its lightweight, waterproof trunks suited well for motorcars. Modern prices range from around $1, 500 to more than $16, 000.)
德鲁曼深谙此道——他以重振19世纪的箱包品牌Moynat而闻名，在2011年，他把该品牌出售给阿诺特集团（Groupe Arnault），交易总价并未公布（这个品牌创立于1849年——比路易威登早五年——Moynat的轻便防水箱包非常适合汽车旅行，因此赢得了富裕阶层的青睐。现在的箱包价格从1,500美元左右到1.6万多美元不等）。
I met de Lummen and Pierre Mallevays, a managing partner at the corporate finance advisory firm Savigny Partners, last week in Barcelona—we were there attending a two-day conference on luxury organized by IESE Business School, and I moderated a panel in which they participated. Our discussion was entitled The Art and Science of Luxury Goods Brands Revival; it analyzed the intricacies of revamping historic fashion brands in the modern age.
上周在巴塞罗那，我见到了阿诺德·德鲁曼和皮埃尔·马勒韦斯（Pierre Mallevays），马勒韦斯是企业金融顾问公司萨维尼合伙公司（Savigny Partners）的管理合伙人——当时我们在那里参加西班牙IESE商学院组织的为期两天的奢侈品会议，他们加入了我主持的座谈小组。我们的讨论题目为“奢侈品品牌复苏的艺术和科学”：这次讨论对历史悠久的时尚品牌在现代重获新生的复杂情况进行了分析。
Both de Lummen and Mallevays have quite some history in this field: de Lummen bought the old French couture label Vionnet in 2006, opened new offices on 21 Place Vendôme in Paris, hired designer Sophia Kokosalaki and distributed exclusively in Barneys New York stores for the first two seasons. Three years later he sold it to the Italian fashion scion Matteo Marzotto and his business partner, Gianni Castiglioni; Kazakhstan-born billionaire Goga Ashkenazi bought it in 2012. Vionnet held its first official runway show earlier this month in Paris to warm reviews.
德鲁曼和马勒韦斯都在这个领域打拼了多年：2006年，德鲁曼收购了古老的法国高级时装品牌薇欧奈（Vionnet），他在巴黎的凡登广场21号开设了新的工作室，聘请设计师索菲亚·可可萨拉齐（Sophia Kokosalaki），前两个时装季的服装仅在纽约的巴尼斯精品店（Barneys）独家销售。三年后，他把这个品牌出售给意大利时装巨头马蒂奥·玛佐托（Matteo Marzotto）及其商业合伙人詹尼·卡斯蒂格利奥尼（Gianni Castiglioni）；2012年，哈萨克斯坦出生的富豪戈加·阿什肯纳齐（Goga Ashkenazi）收购了这个品牌。本月初，薇欧奈在巴黎举行了首次正式的时装发布会，获得了热烈的好评。
Mallevays has some heavy credentials as well. Prior to founding Savigny Partners he worked as a director of acquisitions for LVMH, and he sits on the board of ACNE, Lanvin and Tom Dixon. He was a key player in the Vionnet and Moynat deals.
马勒韦斯也有深厚的资历。在创办萨维尼合伙公司前，他曾担任路易威登集团（LVMH）收购部门的总监，并且在艾克妮（ACNE）, 朗雯（Lanvin）和汤姆·迪克森（Tom Dixon）等品牌担任董事。他在转让薇欧奈和Moynat品牌的交易中发挥了关键作用。
“We’re selling you a dream in a way, ” Mallevays says about packaging old labels for sale. “Sleeping Beauties can be hugely attractive for the right group—the right brand can get up to scale very quickly and successfully.”
谈到包装旧品牌出售的话题，马勒韦斯说，“从某种意义上来说，我们卖给你的是梦想。‘睡美人’对理想的顾客群来说有巨大的吸引力——若选对品牌的话，便可以快速地实现规模化并获得成功。”
But the notion of reviving a dormant brand takes real skill, patience and a bit of intuitive artistry. Some fare better than others. Balenciaga, Burberry and Goyard have been revived past their initial heydays decades ago and are viable and lively once again. The now-discontinued Maybach, which was once a powerhouse of automotive integrity? Not quite.
但是复活沉睡已久的品牌概念需要真正的技巧、耐心和少许带有直觉性的技艺。巴黎世家（Balenciaga）、巴宝莉（Burberry）和戈雅（Goyard）恢复了他们几十年前全盛时期的风采，能够生存下来，再次焕发出活力。曾经是汽车行业响当当品牌的迈巴赫却没能成功复活，又被打入冷宫了。
“There are some brands that it simply is good if they don’t exist, ” de Lummen says. He is doing what he can to ensure his current projects will go the way of Moynat rather than Maybach.
德鲁曼说，“有些品牌如果不复存在，简单地来说是件好事”。他要做的事情就是保证现在运作的项目将复制Moynat的成功，而不是重蹈迈巴赫的覆辙。
There’s Mainbocher, the French house founded in 1929 at 12 Avenue George V and that introduced the modern corset 10 years later (not to mention designed the wedding trousseau for the Duchess of Windsor). Mainbocher had relocated in New York in 1940 and closed by 1971, but Luvanis bought the rights in 2009 and has plans for revival slated for early 2014.
1929年，法国时装品牌梅因布彻（Mainbocher）在乔治五世大街12号创立，十年后推出了现代的紧身胸衣（更不用说为温莎公爵夫人设计过婚纱礼服）。梅因布彻品牌在1940年迁往纽约，在1971年关门歇业，但是Luvanis公司在2009年买下了所有权，计划在2014年年初重新推出这个品牌。
Also consider Herbert Levine, the 65-year-old shoe company founded in New York by a husband-and-wife team that for decades produced more than 260, 000 shoes annually. Marilyn Monroe wore them. So did Marlene Dietrich, Nancy Sinatra and Jackie Kennedy—but even those ladies couldn’t keep it from closing in 1975.
还有赫伯特·莱文（Herbert Levine），这家有65年历史的鞋业公司创立于纽约，创始人是夫妻搭档，几十年来平均每年生产超过26万双鞋。玛丽莲·梦露（Marilyn Monroe）穿过这家公司的女鞋。玛琳·黛德丽（Marlene Dietrich）、南希·辛纳特拉（Nancy Sinatra）和杰基·肯尼迪（Jackie Kennedy）也光顾过这个品牌——即使是这些上流名媛也不能阻止该公司在1975年关门。
It’s just as well–Luvanis bought the label in 2010, and de Lummen says he’s currently discussing revival plans with partners with an eye to reopen by 2014.
幸运的是——Luvanis公司在2010年买下了这个品牌，德鲁曼表示他正在与合作伙伴讨论复活该品牌的计划，考虑在2014年重新开张。
Elsewhere in the old-glamour-brand world keep watch for work from Schiaparelli (Tod’s owner Diego Della Valle bought it in 2007 and last year opened new offices at the historical 21 Place Vendôme. He has yet to appoint an official creative director); Au Départ (Luvanis acquired rights in 2011 and has recently finalized a revival plan. The brand will be proposed to potential buyers next month); and Belber (Luvanis purchased rights to the classic-style American trunkmaker in 2010 and entered into a joint-venture agreement with Fashionista Asia to revive it. Expect a store in early 2014).
在充满魅力的古老品牌领域，人们密切关注其他品牌的动向，比如夏帕瑞丽（Schiaparelli）（2007年，Tod’s集团总裁迭戈·德拉·瓦莱买下了这个品牌，去年在具有历史意义的凡登广场21号开设了新的工作室。他还没有正式任命一位创意总监）；Au Départ（Luvanis公司在2011年收购了这个品牌的所有权，并在不久前敲定了复兴计划。该品牌准备在下个月出售给潜在买家）；以及贝尔伯（Luvanis公司在2010年买下了这个经典风格的美国箱包品牌，与Fashionista Asia签订了合资协议，重新振兴这个品牌。预计在2014年年初开设门店）。
Those each come just behind current launches from Roger Vivier and Moynat. The shoe brand and luggage-maker have already opened anew with chic boutiques and strong success: last year the Della Valle-owned Vivier achieved a turnover of 74.5 million Euros in 2012.
在这些品牌出现前，罗杰·维威耶（Roger Vivier）和Moynat刚刚重获新生。这个鞋履品牌和箱包制造商已经焕然一新，开设了时尚精品店，获得了巨大的成功：去年迭戈·德拉·瓦莱旗下的罗杰·维威耶在2012年获得了7,450万美元的营业额。
Not bad for such a late awakening.
此等迟来的苏醒也许并不是件坏事。
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